Rings – The Golden Knot

I t may seem romantic to have your engagement ring magically appear as your future groom proposes on bended knee. The first time you see it, it’s the most beautiful ring in the world.

If you think it’s about to happen, make sure he knows what you like – a little window-shopping will do. Rings come in many styles, with different precious stones and metals so it isn’t easy to make such an important selection for someone else, regardless of how well he knows you.

The ring also represents a significant financial investment so you want to make the right choice. You don’t simply discard it because you are tired of it and certainly don’t want it to wear out prematurely. Here are some common sense suggestions to make sure that it has the same sparkle a decade from now.

Engagement Rings

It’s the ring that announces your intention to marry and is designed to make a statement. What better use for a diamond? Diamonds are still the most popular precious stone for engagement rings and are assessed according to the 4C’s – colour, cut, clarity and carat weight. They remain popular because they are permanent, brilliant and expensive.

Here are the standards by which diamonds are graded.

The 4Cs

Cut and proportion have a lot to do with the brilliance of the stone. The gem is in fact a multitude of reflective surfaces that focus the light through the top.

Clarity refers to small imperfections inthe stone – virtually every gem has them. The general rule is that the fewer defects the higher the price.

Colour refers to the subtle off-white colouring of the stone – the most desirable rated “D” for colourless and subsequently the most expensive.

Carat weight refers to the actual size/weight of the stone. Don’t get focused on this single measurement. A smaller stone with an excellent cut and clarity will outshine a larger stone of lesser quality and brilliance.

Diamonds

It takes a trained eye and a microscope or jeweler’s loupe to really assess the value of a diamond. That’s why you need to place a lot of trust in the jeweler. They can explain the scale by which gem quality is measured and how imperfections are assessed. Yes, there will be flaws, most of which are invisible to the naked eye.

The most obvious difference with diamonds, other than size, is the shape of the stone. The round or brilliant is still the most common, but styles change and new cuts such as triangular and heart-shaped have been introduced. The oval, pear, emerald, baguette and marquise are some of the other common shapes.

Other Precious Stones

Diamonds are not the only precious stone suitable for an engagement ring. Emeralds, rubies and sapphires are also widely used and can be assessed with the same criteria as diamonds. Colour is an important factor – the purer the better, although there is room here for personal taste. You can combine these gems with diamonds, commonly used as border stones to larger center stones. One important thing to keep in mind; none of these gems are as hard as diamonds and in the case of emeralds can be comparatively soft. This means more care is required and a shorter life span for the stone.

Whatever the gem, it must have the correct setting. The setting (ring) frames the stone, highlights its beauty and gives a secure resting place. Rings vary in thickness and diameter so it needs to be in proportion to the size of the stone and the size of your hand. Keep in mind, it’s the overall look – a combination of stone and setting that you are assessing when you are making your preferences known. If you have the opportunity, try on several.

Gold

Gold is still the most common metal for wedding and engagement rings. Gold comes in white, yellow, green and pink tones, which is the result of the metal it is alloyed with to give it strength. In its pure form, gold is fairly soft and easily bent or marked. Gold purity is measured in karats – the higher the karat count, the higher the cost.

Platinum & Other Metals

Platinum, the second most popular option, is more expensive and more durable than gold. It costs 4 to 5 times the price of a comparable gold ring. Depending on purity it has about twice the weight of gold. It’s considered an heirloom metal because of its resistance to wear. Platinum is also known as a “white metal” because it has no trace colours such as those found in gold.

Buying Tips

Here are some suggestions for selecting the engagement ring that is both a thing of beauty and cherished by each of you for years to come.

• They used to say that the groom should spend three months salary on the engagement ring, which is a lot of money at any time. There is no standard for how much it should cost, just what it should mean.
• Diamonds may be coloured, yellow, blue, green and red, increasing in price with the intensity of the colour. This isn’t the same as an off-colour diamond, which is of lower quality and price.
• The stone can be changed in most rings so if you see a style you like but want a larger or smaller stone or better quality it can be changed to suit your budget.
  Don’t emphasize stone size above quality. A smaller stone with a better cut can show better. If you buy a larger stone with a lot of flaws, you may regret it later.
  For grooms: if you are looking for the “surprise impact” and haven’t consulted the bride on what she would like, go with a simple style such as a solitaire. There’s more chance that she’ll like it and if not, most stores are willing to exchange it afterwards. As the future groom, don’t be disappointed if this happens – it’s her happiness that is paramount.
• The mount determines the height the stone is set above the ring – the higher it is the more prominent and the more likely it is to catch on things. If your fiancee is an active outdoors person and uses her hands for physical work, a bezel-set stone, embedded in the ring may be more practical.
• Canadian diamonds are just entering the market and are known to be a good value with a superior cut. These diamonds are frequently laser-etched with a “bear” or “maple leaf” symbol – invisible to the naked eye and are used only to identify the stone’s origin.
• • Some diamonds come with an engraved serial number but it’s not something to pay extra for because there is little likelihood of recovering it in the case it is lost or stolen.
• Have you inherited your grand-mother’s wedding or diamond ring and think it a great way to save some money? Ring styles date themselves and many older precious stones may not have the same value today. The method of cutting stones has changed – becoming more brilliant. Your first step is an accurate appraisal of the ring and stones. If the setting is out of date, have the stones removed and placed in a new band.
• What happens if you refuse the proposal? Most stores will offer to take back the ring as long as it has not been damaged. It’s good business. They know that when the time comes again, he’ll be back.
• The Internet may be a great source of information but is not the place to be purchasing diamonds. The value is largely determined by qualities that are invisible to the untrained eye. This is one case where you rely heavily on the reputation of the seller.
• Can’t make a decision? Select three that you like and set them aside. As you continue to browse, replace one of the three each time you see something you like better. It’s common that the final three you selected will look very similar.

Wedding Bands

For the Bride

You may not wear your engagement ring everyday, but your wedding ring is worn constantly. Therefore, you need to be careful with your selection. The wedding ring needs to complement the engagement ring, so it should be consistent in design and proportion. The two are commonly offered as a set and are shaped to interlock. There is no requirement to buy the two if you don’t like the look of them together. Jewelers can make adjustments to most wedding rings to get the right fit. Whatever your choice, be sure that the two rings complement each other, even if you do not expect to wear your engagement ring daily. Trying them on is the only way to find what best suits you.

If you are looking for some flash and have the budget for it, consider a ring set with diamonds or other precious stones. Keep in mind, your wedding ring can receive a lot of abuse that can dislodge or damage stones, so it should be up to daily wear and tear.

The ring itself can be a lot more than a simple gold band. Elaborate surface etching and patterns can add a reflective quality and visual detail and inscriptions can be engraved on the inside surface to personalize it. Two-tone combinations of contrasting gold or other metals are currently popular – layered or woven in simple or intricate patterns. New metals such as titanium, both strong and lightweight are being introduced.

Pricing on wedding bands is dependent on design, type of metal and weight. Custom designs will usually cost more, but offer an original look. This service is offered by both jewelry stores and craftspeople If you choose the latter, select someone with a reputation for high-quality work and be sure to view samples. They will seldom have a supply in stock, so allow extra time for it to be made. If it is a “statement piece” you are after, custom design is the best choice.

For the Groom

Although a ring is considered mandatory for the bride, the jury is still out when it comes to grooms. Some men just do not feel comfortable wearing jewelry, regardless of the symbolism behind it. If it is important that he wear this symbol, discuss it before you are sitting across from the jeweler.

The groom’s ring is usually a wider, larger version of the bride’s ring and the two are frequently offered as a matched set. But, it is not necessary that it match. Rings can be etched with scrollwork or images such as a fish, sailboat or a bear. The more the groom likes the ring, the more likely he will wear it. As a piece of jewelry that is worn constantly, it should suit the wearer.

Buying Tips – Suggestions for selecting your perfect wedding ring

• Jewelers do not mind if youbring in a picture of a ring you like whether it is from a magazine or the Internet.
• A little window-shopping and browsing can help the decision-making process. It will give you an opportunity to determine what is in style and the approximate price range you are looking for. Stores can also send you home with catalogues and marketing brochures.
• Your selections are not limited to what is in the case. Most stores can show you catalogues from which they can order and some are able to custom make it to your specifications.
• Some shops allow you to chase on installment or offer interest-free payment terms with approved credit. Most will require at least 50% of the ring price to be paid before it leaves the store.

Here’s how the
business side works

There are a lot of places you can shop for rings, including wholesale jewelers, department stores, the Internet and retail jewelry stores. In most cases it is a simple “pay for it and it’s yours” transaction. Small town shops commonly offer services you cannot get elsewhere – the option to purchase on installment, exchanges and very personalized service. Some even offer a “loaner”, which the groom can borrow for making his proposal knowing that the two of you will be selecting the ring of your choice later.

Engagement rings start in the low hundreds and the sky is the limit. Price can also vary with changes in both the price of gold and precious stones.

The custom design process requires the creation of a wax mold, which is usually based on a sample design or another ring that is similar to what you are looking for. Some stores can create the model on a computer screen, which you preview from multiple angles.

The design will influence the type of stones that are used and the size. There is little if any charge for the first “wax” after which a fee of $25 – $50 is commonly charged depending on the changes. The store will request a deposit before the casting process and the balance when the ring is completed. Due to the unique nature of these rings they are not usually returnable.